Beginning to create art can be intimidating. I used to do watercolors when I was in high school; when I decided to pick them back up at the age of 25 I was absolutely terrified. The supplies are numerous and the prices can be quite different as well. Furthermore, I just didn’t know what the number and expressions meant.
After the COVID-19 pandemic, many of us are spending more time indoors and so I have noticed many of my friends are picking up arts and crafts. Today I’m writing this article to help the absolute watercolor beginners with navigating this new landscape.
If you’re interested in ink drawing, check out my post about ink supplies.
Watercolor Paper
When it comes to paper, you have two main types: cold press and hot press. These terms tell you about the paper texture. Hot press paper is flattened with heat so the paper surface is smooth. Cold press paper has a rough texture that has a characteristic finished look.
Personally I use both, but I think for creating cartoon-like characters and illustration hot press might be the better choice. When painting nature, cityscapes, and loose botanical compositions many artists prefer the cold press paper.
The watercolor papers and sketchbooks also have different weights; this is about the thickness of the paper. The thicker the paper, the less warping you’ll have. In my personal experience, anything less than 300g (140 lbs) is too thin. But as a hobbyist, and someone who does not use as many wet washes, I found paper heavier 300g an unnecessary investment.
Thirdly, the watercolor papers can come in sheets, blocks, and sometimes bound together as a sketchbook. This decision is purely based on your preference. Since I am a hobbyist and I do not do large paintings, I prefer the sketchbook type (but I do have a couple of blocks at hand just in case.)
My suggestion would be not to skip on the watercolor paper. While cheaper paper (for example croquis paper) might work, the paper surface tends to dissolve. It can be a frustrating and negative experience in the end. Getting a lower end real watercolor paper would be a better idea.
Here are some favorites of mine:
Canson cold press watercolor paper, wire bound
Fabriano hot press studio watercolor pad
Since we’re getting to know different brands, Arches is a high-end watercolor paper trusted by many artists. But for the newbie artist, it’s an unnecessary investment.
Watercolor Paints
Paint is a difficult subject. I think many new artists end up spending a lot of money on different types of paint because they don’t know what works for them and there are so many different options available. Not to mention, the companies take advantage of these and offer very delicious looking sets and fancy-sounding combinations that can be hard to resist.
If you listen to any of the masters, they usually suggest you get a handful of basic high-quality colors and start practicing with them. This is probably the wisest choice but to do it you need to know the style and subject you want to work on. My suggestion would be to look at different artists’ works, select a master to follow, and use their suggested pallet.
When it comes to paints, you have two options: tubes or pans. Most of us remember watercolors from the round pans we used in kindergarten. However, for serious painting, tubes are the absolute superior option. They tend to be more brilliant, easier on your brush, and give you better saturation. Pans on the other hand are visually more accessible to the new artist. So it can feel more comfortable to begin with.
The Sakura Koi set is the one I used to get back into painting 5 years ago. I still use it in tandem with other brands and mediums. It’s not a high quality one, but it has a good price point.
If you are serious about watercolors, always check the pigments in the paint you use and learn about different pigments and their properties. This is especially important for reds and their derivatives because they are highly fugitive (they can fade much faster than others).
Winsor & Newton Cotman watercolors are some of the best student paints available.
If you want to buy professional-grade tubes, again, do your research on the pigments before purchasing. Winsor & Newton, Daniel Smith, and Schmincke are the names almost everyone knows. There are two lesser-known Korean watercolor brands that are ok as well, Shinhan and Mijello (just make sure you check the pigments used in them because they are guilty of having some iffy tubes).
Watercolor Brushes
Many master watercolorists suggest that you invest in a good brush, more than any other supply.
You might need different sizes and shapes of brushes depending on your style and high-end brushes can get very expensive. My suggestion is to get a good average size round brush and for the rest of them just avoid the cheapest brushes on the market.
You can also get a water-brush for sketching on the go. I personally never got used to painting with them even though I have used them extensively. But they make painting outside a lot easier.
You can read more about different brush types here.
* Remember to take good care of your brushes at all times.
Miscellaneous: Masking Tape, Masking Fluid, & Eraser
These are not essential, but they can help you depending on your style.
Eraser
You can’t erase watercolor but since watercolor is transparent, you’d want to keep your sketch as light as possible and remove unnecessary lines. It’s important not to damage the paper, so keep erasing to a minimal amount.
I personally use kneaded erasers; I roll them on the paper and they grab the excess graphite. If you are really careful and have a light hand, a soft eraser can work too.
Masking Tapes & Masking Fluid
The general rule of thumb for watercolor is that you preserve the white of the paper (instead of adding while paint late). This is because watercolor looks translucent but white paints are opaque and mess with the aesthetic of the work.
Masking tapes are good for covering regular shaped areas such as the borders, or straight lines. They come in different widths and are great for having a clean framed look if you like the aesthetic.
Masking fluid on the other hand is a liquid that can be applied in your desired shape. They dry to a rubber-like substance and can be removed after your work is done to reveal the white area underneath. They are both amazing and a pain in the ass to master. For example, if you do not use masking fluid properly or use them with the wrong type of paper they can tear the surface of the paper (which is the most frustrating thing).
The other issue is how to apply them; they will destroy your brushes. But these days many producers offer masking fluid that can be applied directly from the container to the paper.
There are more miscellaneous supplies I could cover that can be used with watercolors. However, at that point, you’ll be leaning more towards mixed media rather than pure watercolor art. But what matters most is to get the aesthetic you desire. So I will write more about this subject at a later day.
I hope you found this helpful. Share your work and instagram handle with me!